This issue of Honduras Update is a compilation of information received from readers and my own visit in December. Hope you don╒t find it is too long.
There were two places I visited in December that I would especially like to call to your attention:
The first was the Punta Sal National Park located northwest of Tela, it is necessary to take a motorized boat (launch) to visit. The boats are outboard and about 18 feet long. There are two places you can arrange for transportation, one is to sign up at the Hotel Bahia Azul beside the beach next to the Hotel Sherwood. The other is Garifuna Tours on the main street near Parque Central, here you can arrange more personalized passage. Cost runs about $15 per person. For $65 you can have your own launch that holds up to five people. This includes a very knowledgeable guide. The launch has a canopy for shade, a radio as well as safety equipment.
I chose the Garifuna Tour, we had a group of four that left about 8 in the morning. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to reach the park, going over beautiful blue water heading to a destination of white beaches, cliffs and green vegetation. The park is full of wildlife, animals, birds and stories of pirates of old.
When you reach the park you can chose your own itinerary. Very few people can be found, you can enjoy swimming on the white beaches, hiking or exploring. A fascinating place! Howler monkeys, noisy birds and the sound of the surf fill the air.
On our way back we had a great fish dinner at a small two family village. We saw the fish being caught and cooked. No soft drinks here, coconuts are your beverage. The lunch was $2 plus 10 cents per coconut.
As the launch approached the fishing village we saw a small rowboat where a young girl about 15 was with her 8 year old brother. They were net fishing. As they pulled the net in, we could see they were tossing back into the ocean about as much fish as they caught. Later I was told these were the unedible fish. These two were fishing for about two hours and provided the fish for our lunch as well as fish that were later transported to restaurants in Tela. The young girl and her brother made the equivalent of about $15. Not a bad days work.
The second highlight was a visit to the Isla Tigre in the southern part of Honduras. Isla Tigre is in the Gulf of Fonseca, Honduras╒ Pacific Coast entrance.
We were delayed in our arrival at Coyolito, arriving about dusk. Coyolito is San Lorenzo╒s oil refinery terminal. You can╒t miss it as the road seems to run right into it. Here if you arrived earlier in the day you can catch a launch that will take you directly to the islands only hotel, Villas Playa Negra.
But we weren╒t that fortunate as the hotel launch had just departed as we arrived. No problem, for $4 we arranged our own launch to take us to the islands only city, Amapala. We were helped in our arrangements by a young 12 year old boy named Miquel. Quite a knowledgeable young man, we trusted him to show us the way.
The boat ride to Amapala took about a half an hour. By this time it was getting pretty dark. We arrived at the Amapala docks and Miquel then showed us the way, a short distance, to the ╥bodega╙ for the hotel. Here we met an older gentleman, guardian of the bodega and greeter for the hotel guests that arrived directly at the docks. We were told the hotel would send a pickup truck for us, he just needed to call them on the radio. The only problem was, there was no electricity and he thought it would be another 15 minutes for so until power would be available. He was right, 15 minutes later power was restored and he cried over and over into his radio ╥hotel...hotel...hotel...hotel...╙, no reply, I guess they weren╒t listening. Miquel told us he could find us a taxi and we opted for that. Just about the time Miquel came with the taxi (pickup truck), contact with the hotel was made, but we were told it would be about an hour before they could come for us. We took the taxi.
Standing up in the back of the pickup, it was difficult to see anything except what the headlights illuminated. The drive took about 45 minutes over a bumpy dirt road. Miquel was with us all the way, by this time I had learned his name, age and that he lived on the island with his grandmother. He told me his mother abandoned him when he was four years old and he has been with his grandmother ever since. He works at the docks helping visitors and earns enough to support her and his school expenses.
The Hotel Villas Playa Negra presently has 14 units, 10 of these are airconditioned, an almost must for southern Honduras. There is a swimming pool and restaurant. The rooms are very basic, two simple beds, a bench, no pictures on the white walls, a bathroom. All of which are very basic indeed. The cost is $40 per night, per room, regardless of how many people are in the room.
You can see an obvious effort was made to make this place accommodating to visitors, but it lacks the added effort that turns this into a really comfortable place to stay. It is, however, the only hotel on the island. I have heard rumors, although all the residents I spoke to said this was the only hotel, that there are a few others of the hospidaje class. The hotel╒s telephone number is 98-8580. I called for reservations, but when I got there apparently they were lost, no problem, they had space for us. (They lose a lot of reservations in Honduras).
In the morning we finally got to see what a lovely island it was. The island is actually a volcano jutting out of the sea. I didn╒t realize Honduras had any volcanos, this may be the only one.
During daylight hours the hotel has an excellent launch available, we took it to explore the island coast and see some of the surrounding islands. From the gulf view, you can see El Salvador and Nicaragua. After the boat trip we got another pickup taxi and toured what we could see of the island itself. The beaches are impressive.
One thing that surprised me, was that the Isla Tigre seemed to have a lower level of poverty than the rest of Honduras. I thought the mainland was bad enough, but this was worse. Apparently opportunities for making a living are fewer here than the rest of Honduras.
I enjoyed my visit to Amapala and Isla Tigre. It was a beautiful island with lovely beaches, but I would have to admit many visitors would be disappointed due to the lack of facilities. If you are looking for a peaceful place, off the tourists beaten path, you can get by with rustic, this is just the place.
When it was time to return, the hotel launch took us back to the docks where, you guessed it, Miquel was there waiting to carry our bags and get us the next boat out. The hotel would have taken us back to the mainland, but with our schedule of visiting the island, it just did not work out. $4 again did it and our group was headed back to the mainland.
Many changes, disappointing closings -
Perhaps one of the most disappointing aspects of my December visit to Honduras was the number of tourism related businesses that have closed, changed ownership or just no longer were maintained enough to recommend. Places that I felt had real potential are no more. Hard hit was my favorite Honduran city - Tela. Cabanas Tela, changed hands and is no longer of the quality I like to recommend. Inn of the Last Resort has also changed hands and the road to it is so bad I was forced to take it out of the book. Turocentro Lancetilla, noted for its gardens, is now abandoned.
In Copan about a half dozen new restaurants have now gone out of business. One of the best restaurants in Santa Rosa de Copan is now closed. The Tannery, a favorite restaurant near Tegucigalpa is no more.
What I think this points out is that anyone starting a business in Honduras must have the assets and and determination to stick it out for the long run. Much of the tourism business is dependent upon the seasons, slow periods can be expected.
Unleaded gasoline -
ESSO oil company announced it will sell unleaded gasoline at its station near the Toncontin Aiport in Tegucigalpa and expand availablility to other stations. It is expected to sell for 22 centavos more for unleaded regular and 40 centavos more for unleaded premium. We applaud this beginning, but it is still too early to say ╥unleaded gasoline is available in Honduras╙. You might also recall a previous update that told of at least one station selling unleaded on Roatan.
From: CaroleH999@aol.com
To: Honduras1@aol.com
╥It really is fun to read what visitors to Honduras have to say. I'd like to add:
My daughter, granddaughter and I traveled in Honduras for nine days last Semana Santa (big mistake!). That is probably the biggest travel holiday for Hondurans, too.
The highlight of the visit was the three nights we spent at the Hacienda El Jaral outside of Copan. The road was in good shape then, although under construction. A Hacienda van picked us up at the airport in San Pedro Sula and it was ours to use during our stay. The people were wonderful, accommodating and friendly. If any of your readers want details, have them e-mail me. Thanks for your tip.╙
Dengue -
There was an article on Dengue a month or so ago in the Phoenix paper, that came from the New York Times. Anyhow, it stated that a pamphlet is expected to be available by the end of the year from state of local health depts. or you can write : Public Inquiries, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, 1600 Clifton Road N.E., Atlanta GA 30333. Information is also available from the C.D.C Traveler's Hot Line at (404) 332-4559, or at http://www.cdc.gov
Hope that's helpful...Enjoy the Holiday season!
Joan Surfus
JSurfus@aol.com
More from Brad -
We had our usual TACA problems returning. TACA gave me reconfirmed reservations two days in advance of leaving. We were told to be at the airport at 9 a.m. for a 11 a.m. departure to El Salvador. They were given our telephone number to call if there were any changes. From El Salvador, we would then supposedly connect to a fight to San Francisco.
9 a.m. on the day of departure we arrived promptly and were then told the flight to El Salvador was canceled and that the same flight the next day was full. We had to return in the afternoon for a 4 p.m., flight to El Salvador. The flight to San Francisco was 5 p.m. on the following day. Honduras TACA reps. left it up in the air about who was responsible for our expenses in El Salvador. Their advice was, get to El Salvador and let El Salvador TACA reps. take care of the problem.
We did that and then talked to the TACA reps. in El Salvador which gripped that the Honduran reps. always send them THEIR problems. It didn't come easy, but with lots of talk on both sides, TACA finally agreed to take care of all expenses in El Salvador (hotel, intransit immigration, transportation and meals). The hotel was the first class "Hotel El Salvador".
Many travelers would not have fought as hard as we did and I am sure TACA tries hard to get out of any additional expenses whenever possible. El Salvador immigration fees alone would have run $35.
That night in El Salvador TACA had fourteen passengers including us who were their guests for the night. These were TACA passengers connecting from Houston and Belize heading to Honduras and one for Panama.
Fortunately our flight to San Francisco came off as expected, although the plane was LACSA.
Tropical Fruit Drink-
While in Tela, at the Restaurante Marabu,I tried a new fruit drink called ╥maracuya╙. Tasted to me like grapefruit with sugar, but they assured me it wasn╒t. Delicious, I╒d like to try it again. My Spanish language dictionary is no help, does anyone know if there is an English word for this drink?
Second Annual Conference on ecotourism and conservation -
The conference is scheduled for April 17-19, 1996 in La Ceiba. Both national and international speakers will address combined issues of eco-tourism and conservation. Continental Airlines of offering reduced air fares to delegates. For more information contact Tom Ellis, P.O. Box 33462, Kerrville, TX 78029 or telephone (210) 792-4397.
Beach House, La Ceiba -
The Crawfords have a beach front house they will rent for $35 per night. It is fully furnished. They also have a 4 wheel drive Toyota truck with passenger seat for $35 per day delivered to the San Pedro Sula Airport.
Those interested may contact Rosemary Crawford directly at r.crawford@internetMCI.com
Robbery in Mexico -
Two young men were robbed this Christmas Season on a drive into Mexico to Costa Rica, entering at Nogales to the Pacific Coast at Guaymas. Their interesting account of what transpired and what happened afterwards makes fascinating reading. You can receive a copy by contacting him directly at StephenLAC@aol.com
Cayos Cochinos -
The only resort in Cayos is the Plantation Beach Resort. Comfortable cabins with meals included. Their phone number is 42-0974 and their radio handle is ╥Trinity╙. Helen is the manager.
(information thanks to LindaS9208@aol.com)
Fantasy Island -
More reports of problems at the Fantasy Island resort. A recent visitor reported that no orientation of the travel package was made, no hot water and what water there was was rust colored, room without towels, phone not operating, hotel bus breaking down on way to airport and so forth. The feeling was that is Fantasy Island bills itself and charges the public for a ╥luxury resort╙, they should operate as one.
(StephieDiB@aol.com)
ROAD CONDITIONS (January 1996) -
SPS to Puerto CortÄs:
This highway was scheduled to be a four lane roadway, but construction delays have allowed it to be only partially completed.
Some areas are pretty bad and only daylight driving is recommended beyond Choloma. Much work needs to be done from that point. Most of the heavy earth moving is done.
The roadwork has been announced as commencing several times by the government, but no actual construction has begun.
SPS to Tela:
Excellent road conditions, construction that started several years ago has now been completed. Very few potholes, a pleasure to drive this route. One of the best in Honduras.
Tela to La Ceiba:
A once excellent road has been affected by the storms and potholes are a definite concern. Some places are really bad. Don╒t cancel your drive, but use caution, daylight driving only is recommended, drive a bit slower and watch for weaving cars trying to avoid these holes.
On very real problem is the numerous unsurfaced lines crossing the road. These may be caused by drainage tubes being placed below the road surface, but they remain unpaved and hazardous to drivers. Several areas have construction opening the road to depths of ten feet without lighting or warnings of danger. Several are to the middle of the roadway where cars drive inches from falling off.
This stretch of highway is scheduled for repair. This has become one of the worse roadways in the country and is deteriorating fast.
La Ceiba to Trujillo:
Roadway is still very good, numerous potholes, but not nearly as many as the Tela to La Ceiba route. Biggest problem is the surface height of bridges, just about all of them have a roadway surface difference of from one inch to three inches. Can you imagine hitting a curb three inches high at 50 miles per hour? That╒s exactly what can happen, slow down and use caution as each bridge is approached. Problem seems to get worse as you get closer to Trujillo.
Tegucigalpa to SPS:
The construction efforts of the past years has really paid off. The road is excellent and enjoyable. Few potholes, nothing to be overly concerned about. Worse part is a two to three mile stretch past Chamelecùn, no work has been done on this for several years. Nighttime drivers often encounter thick fog in the mountainous areas.
Tegucigalpa to Choluteca:
Excellent roadway, all paved and completed. Fair amount of truck traffic, they seem to own the road.
SPS to La Entrada:
Excellent road with a few potholes, all paved with construction completed.
La Entrada to Copçn Ruins:
The entire highway is being resurfaced, construction is almost completed, but the rest is in very poor condition. It╒s passible, but allow extra time and daylight hours are recommended. Road crews were visible and working. The worst area is a two mile stretch near Copçn where winter rains and slides have taken their toll. The word is that this should be completed by mid 1996.
Road between Tegucigalpa and Valley de Angeles:
The road between Tegucigalpa and Valle de Angeles is undergoing some major construction. Who knows when the work will be completed - but it does make for a much slower drive to Valle than previously. It is, however, in fair condition and it shouldn't discourage you from driving.
Tegucigalpa to Danli:
Allow about two hours for this drive, lots of areas in need of construction. Few gasoline stations, fill up at both ends. Recommended daylight driving only. On the Teguz side of Danli there seems to be an almost permanent police/military checkpoint (revision). All but local cars are thoroughly searched.
Roadway to Gracias via Santa Rosa de Copçn:
For those heading into the indigenous Indian area of Gracias and Celaque National Park, the roadway is now paved and in excellent shape. However the road from Gracias to Celaque is pretty bad, plans are made for improving it in early 1996. Driving from La Entrada, turning left toward Santa Rosa de Copçn, just before getting to SR de C, turn left at the electrical towers to Gracias.
About one mile from the park entrance is the coffee farm of Mr. Armando Mondragon. It is sometimes possible to rent horses to go the rest of the way if it is not possible to drive.
Note: as Honduras heads into the rainy season, you should be aware that poor construction materials tend to wash out and gaping potholes are the result. This is an annual problem and a source of continued construction efforts.
More on Fantasy Island -
╥Our only complaint about Fantasy Island, and the management will receive a letter from us on the subject, is about their reef ecology, or lack thereof.
Every dive resort we've ever been to stresses that whenever you touch anything on the reef it dies. The only way to keep the reefs beautiful and healthy is to love them from a distance. The standard line is, "Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but bubbles". When we attended our pre-dive orientation talk there was no mention of the "don't touch policy". During the week we noticed that many of the divemasters themselves were handling the reef. In fact, one divemaster, who is the only one to say, "Don't touch" while on the boat, once off the boat was trying to point out a beautiful little fish under some coral and not only scraped his tank against the coral, but knocked off a huge chunk of it!
I know that diving is not your main concern, but the health of the reef will reflect on the health of the community due to tourism.╙
(Stuckenfoo@aol.com)
800 Number Folds -
The Honduras 800 number operated by the Honduran Information Network has called it quits.
El Tiempo has WEB pages -
╥The newspaper ╥El Tiempo╙ now has pages on the WEB http://www.hondutel.hn/dtiempo. I talked to Hector Bustillo, who is a
great mac enthusiast and he is adding a www page daily. The pages have
color graphics and all.╙ (Javier Pinel)
Honduras Internet Connection Update-
Internet is available to the public in Teguz. Call Reynaldo Zelaya in Teguz at 39-5411 and 31-0127, cost is $30.00 for 15 hours. I do not know about the setup fee. For the present Tiempo calls long distance to Teguz. The local modems are supposed to work in SPS on 1st of Feb. Maybe..... In San Pedro call Claudia Fernandez at 53-3885. Thanks to Javier Pinel for this update.
Javier Pinel╒s WWW page -
You can reach his WWW pages at http://www.maya-eco.com.
New Honduran Medical Center -
From: MandyMonc@aol.com
LAS LOMAS MEDICAL CENTER is a medical complex to be developed as a private sector initiative, localized in la Colonia Las Lomas de el Guijarro,
Tegucigalpa, Honduras. It is to provide first class american style medical
services and be equipped with the latest technology. At this time we are in the process of recruiting the most talented personnel from Honduras and abroad. for more information about job opportunities, investment and others, please contact our offices in Tegucigalpa (504) 393417, 393419 or fax 393424
New book -
The book ╥Mexico & Central American Handbook╙, 1996 edition is now available form Passport Books or your travel bookstore. It is hardbound, some 930 pages covering all the countries of Central America and Mexico. Cost $21.95. 70 pages deal with Honduras.
I am always impressed with how much my book differs from others, this is an excellent book, but as do others, their perspective is quite different.
For one thing, the type is small, very small. I don╒t have a vision problem, but reading something this small could give a person a headache. The facts are presented factually, but lacks the warmth of someone telling of his or her experiences and visits. Hotel listings, restaurant listings and so forth are listed without separation, running on the same lines to make it difficult to quickly locate what you want. There is an index, but it is general in nature, again hard to find specifics when you need them.
The book does have a lot of good information, historical perspective and background. This would be a good reference for someone traveling through more than one country.
Economy rentals -
Javier Pinel wrote - >We handle a two bedroom
>place in Roatan for the owner. He charges $25.00 per person per day, fully
>furnished.
Also don╒t forget Rosemary Crawford has a beach house going for $35 a night. I have it booked for the Eco-Tourism Conference in La Ceiba.
Let me know if you want the email addresses for either of these.
Honduras This Week goes online -
Larry Lee, the ecology journalist for ╥Honduras This Week╙ just informed me that their newspaper finally has an email address. It is 73002.135@compuserve.com
We are very pleased to learn this publication is now available on the internet. He tells me plans are to eventually have a WWW site.
Copan news -
Howard Rosenzweig (La Casa de Cafe - Copan) says that the new museum at the Copan ruins is ╥tentatively╙ scheduled for opening in July 1996, but that a more realistic date is December 1996.
Travelers entering Honduras at the Guatemalan - El Florido border crossing have been over charged for both pickup and bus transportation to the Copan ruins. Pickup charges for tourists are 50 to 100 lempiras as opposed to the locals being charged 5 lempiras.
Tegucigalpa╒s newest hotel -
Hotel Excelsior, offers modern and comfortable accommodations. They are still partially in construction adding a swimming pool, cafeteria as well as additional parking. Costs run about $75 for a double, suites a available. Located on Avenida Cervantes, in Tegucigalpa. Telephone 37-2638 or fax 38-0468.
Name change -
The North Coast Shuttle has changed their name to Adventure Shuttle. Same phone numbers and schedules, as far as I can tell the only difference is the name.
Current money exchange -
As of the middle of January the U.S. dollar was exchanged at the rate of 10.50 lempiras.
END Hasta pronto
Honduras Update is issued periodically every few months or so, if you do NOT wish to continue to receive this mailing, just drop me a message and you will be removed from future issues.
If you are actually planning a visit to Honduras, please contact me for a copy of ╥Honduras Travel Guide╙. I will need your mailing address.
